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Sunday, February 16, 2020

Irish Fisherman's Pie

Scoot aside Shepherd's Pie, there's another pie in town.

In general, we tend to think Irish cuisine is all about stews, bangers and mash, blood puddings, black sausages , corned beef and cabbage, rashers, bacon, trotters, shepherd's pies, or meat-filled pasties. While Ireland certainly celebrates all things meat, as an island  surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean to the east, the Irish sea to the west, and the Celtic sea to the south, Ireland also celebrates seafood.

British in origin and akin to Shepherd's pie, Fisherman's pie is a simple baked casserole type dish filled with sauteed vegetables, fresh fish, and smoked fish napped in a silky cream sauce tucked under a blanket of pillowy mashed potatoes. Popular in local pubs and households alike, it's humble comfort food.


It's coming on St. Patrick's day. Cue the bagpipes, pour a pint of Guinness or shot of Jameson's, and shake up the party with a different kind of pie.

Fisherman's Pie
A take on surf and turf.

Turf
Sweet Potato Puree.
In lieu of the traditional white russet potatoes,  I gave it a Bluegrass spin by using local sweet
potatoes.

I rubbed 3 pounds Casey County Red Garnet sweet potatoes with olive oil, wrapped them in aluminum foil, and slid them into a preheated 350 oven to roast for 1 - 1/2 hours. When they were knife tender, I pulled them from the oven, let them cool to the touch, and slipped the off the skins.  While they still somewhat warm, I roughly mashed (squished) the pulp it into a blender and added 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, cracked black pepper, 2 tablespoons lemon zest, 2 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan cheese, and 1/4 cup heavy cream before blending  the potatoes into a smooth puree and setting it aside.

Surf
While any kind of fish would work with this pie, a combination of flaky white fish and smoked fish keeps with tradition and deepens the flavor profile.

For the smoky fish, I flaked 1/2 pound Shuckman's Fish Co. smoked alder salmon into bite sized pieces and set it aside.

After bringing 2 cups whole milk to a gentle simmer in sauce pan, I added 1 bay leaf, a few whole peppercorns, and a handful of fresh parsley stems. With the milk at a gentle ripple, I used a fish spatula to lower 8 ounces fresh cod and 8 ounces fresh haddock into the milk to poach for 2 minutes before removing the fish to a side plate, flaking it into bite sized pieces, and reserving the warmed milk/stock.

Pie
After heating 2 tablespoons olive oil in  large cast iron skillet over a medium flame, I sauteed 1 cleaned and sliced leek, 2 sliced celery stalks, 2 thinly sliced peeled carrots, 1 smashed and minced garlic clove,  1/2 teaspoon salt, and cracked black pepper. When the carrots softened and the leeks caramelized, I deglazed the skillet with 1/2 cup white wine and let it reduce to a glaze before removing the vegetables and setting them aside.

I wiped out the skillet, returned it to the heat, and brought it back to temp before adding 4 tablespoons
unsalted butter and 4 tablespoons flour. When the butter and flour formed a light roux, I strained the reserved warmed milk/stock into the roux 1/2 cup at a time whisking between additions to assure a smooth sauce. When the sauce thickened, I pulled the skillet from the heat and swirled 3 tablespoons thinly sliced green onions throughout the sauce. After gently folding the reserved sauteed vegetables,  poached fish, and smoked salmon into the sauce, I set the pie filling aside to cool.

Sealing the deal.
I filled a pastry bag with the sweet potato puree (a spatula for spreading instead of piping would have been fine) and piped the puree across the top of the filling, piping tiny rosettes at the seams to seal the filling under the potatoes. After brushing the top of the potatoes with melted butter I slid the pie into preheated 375 oven to bake for about 35 minutes. When the filling bubbled up and the potatoes browned, I pulled the pie from the oven and let it rest before finishing with sea salt and scallions.

Simple, rustic, and totally unexpected.

Raise a pint to Fisherman's Pie.