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Thursday, April 23, 2020

Time

I've mopped my kitchen floor 4 times in the last 5 days. I'm not a mopper. Because of the new normal, our housekeeper is self isolating at home. So, now I mop.

We're living through crazy times these days. Navigating  grocery stores, markets, curbside pick-ups, deliveries, and drive-up windows while maintaining proper social distancing in full protective gear can be a challenge. It's really hard to avoid people. They're/we're everywhere. Hopefully (and thankfully), most folks have a safe harbor to ride out what seems to be an unyielding storm. Michael and I are  safe, happy, and anxious at home. Temporarily unemployed  for who knows how long, I take refuge in my kitchen. On any given day, I end up covered in flour from baking things I would never bake in real life and  making more fresh pasta than I ever would in real life. This isn't real life.

Even in normal times, I keep a well stocked pantry. For years, I've gotten ribbed for saving stuff. I toss little, if anything, away. Everything has a purpose or an eventual purpose in another form.Waste not want not. I have the various grains and dried pastas covered. Canned goods, dried beans, sugars, and frivolous things are stored away in the pantry. Along with fresh fruits, I try to keep the vegetable bin stocked with the basics. I pickle, ferment, and put up  almost anything and everything. That said, the freezer is my Fort Knox. Tucked beside (over, under, and in between)  tomato sauces and cut-off from corn from last years bounty, I have chicken bones, shrimp shells, vegetables scraps, leftover things, bread scraps, extra scratch made doughs, stocks, dried shrimp, and  anything I have a proper container to use for storage. I never dreamed a time would come, like now,  that my little gold mine would be worth its weight in gold. Right now, it's all about the pantry and......time.

Just before the yeast shortages turned everyone into sourdough bread bakers, I bought a massive amount of active dry yeast. Boy, has it come in handy.  I've also turned into a flour maniac.  Sleuthing a bit, I'v managed to procure whole wheat flour, whole wheat pastry flour, white whole wheat flour, 00 flour, almond flour, bread flour, cake flour,wheat gluten flour, all purpose flour (bleached and unbleached.....because, why not?), and cornmeal.

For a cook, the luxury of time is everything. Time for long sexy braises. Time for marinating and brining. Time for stock making. Time to think things through. Time for patience. Baking is science. Baking is a lesson in patience. First things first, I'm not patient and I'm not a baker. At all. I suck at baking. Even in school, I squeaked through that part. I'm not much of a rule follower, either.  Baking has rules. Big time rules. Even though  I can barely follow a basic recipe without fiddling with it, self isolation has afforded me the time to be patient, pay attention, play along, and follow the rules.

Every morning at 6:00 am (after copious amounts of coffee), I mise en place meals for the day. Planned, prepped,  and ready to go, I turn my attention to my flour collection. Bread. Pasta. Rolls. Biscuits. Croissants. Dumplings. Pie.  Quiche. Turnovers. Hand Pies. Cinnamon Rolls. On and on and on. With time, anything is possible. I think it's driving Michael crazy.

In my case, it's mostly out of necessity. Most of my food deliveries are haphazard affairs. I order quickly to meet the limited delivery windows. In doing so, I forget things from time to time.When I needed bread sticks for sopping up pasta sauce, I made bread sticks. We reached a point when we needed sandwich bread, so I made rustic white loaves. Breakfast biscuits? While the jury is still out on that one, I keep plugging away. And in times like these, a bowl of chicken and dumplings is  like a grandmother's warm and gentle hug. Gotta have dumplings. Respite from the madness.

On one of my rushed play-by-the-rules delivery moves, I accidentally ordered 3 dozen large organic eggs. I started rolling out a parade of quiches, stratas, omelettes, and pies with meringue. It's been fabulous.

"There's never enough time" used to be my mantra. Now I cherish the time.

Fresh Egg Pasta.
(When life gives you eggs)

Get doughy with it.
Over the years, I've made a lot of fresh pasta. This egg pasta using 00 flour was the most pliable and
workable one I've ever played with.

After sifting 2 1/4 cups cups 00 flour, 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, and a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg  into a large bowl, I made a well in the center of the flour before cracking 3 large whole eggs into the center of the well and drizzling  1 tablespoon olive oil into the well. Using a fork, I slowly incorporated the flour into the eggs until it formed a loose shaggy consistency. When it came together, I rolled the dough onto a floured board, and kneaded it for about 10 minutes until it formed a  smooth dough. Still tight at this point, I wrapped the dough in plastic wrap and set it aside to relax for 45 minutes.

After 45 minutes, I divided the dough into fourths and worked with one piece at a time while keeping the remaining dough covered.

Rolling right along.
Pasta can definitely be made strictly by hand, but I have an old fashioned tabletop pasta roller/cutter
that I adore.

I flattened the dough and rolled the first piece through the lowest setting of the roller 3 times, folding into in half after each pass. When the dough felt right (pliable), I dusted it with flour and started passing it through each setting (narrowing the setting each pass and flouring the dough) until I reached the second to last setting on my roller.

I dusted the sheet with flour, set it aside, and repeated the process with the remaining dough until I had about 8 sheets of pasta.


Size matters.
I wanted variety. While Tagliatelle pasta can stand up to most sauces, wispy capellini works great with lighter delicate sauces.


After moving the hand crank to the cutting section of the pasta cutter, I ran half the pasta through the capellini blades and other half through the tagliatelle blades. I dusted the ribbons with extra flour to keep them from sticking together,  covered them with a dish towel,
and mopped the kitchen floor.

Embrace the pantry.
And the time.